The ordering process is simple; email firstname.lastname@example.org with the item you’re interested in commissioning, and we will send you a swift reply and talk about sizing and material options with you. Because we make each piece one by one with unique sizing and features, and relative to the order in which they were commissioned, depending on the time of year and item, lead times are generally around 35-40 weeks at the moment.
Alright, the definitive size guide, part A: Using an existing jacket to find your size
Step 1: find yourself a jacket that fits you well/pretty well/well enough that you can deduce what’s wrong with the measurements if it doesn’t fit well.
Not just any jacket, but something is:
a) lightweight, without insulation or being overly thick
b) short length, not 3/4 length, no blazers, no anoraks, etc
c) no raglan sleeve jackets - we can’t find shoulder measurements using this. You may use a raglan sleeve jacket for finding all other measurements but the shoulders, if it fits you well.
Examples of lightweight jackets you can use: Rider’s style jackets, etc, harrington jackets, bomber style jackets, track jackets, denim jackets, even zip up hoodies and full-zip cardigans (provided they aren’t of a thick sweater variety and fit the shoulders normally, and not too high) etc, etc.
Examples of jackets not to use: blazers, 3/4 coats, car coats, long coats, winter coats, down jackets, etc
Step 2: Prepare yourself to use some common sense and deduction. It is likely that the jacket you are using above in step 1 does not fit exactly how you want it to - so you’ll use your intuition and best logic to figure out how much you can deduct or add to a certain dimension in order for it to fit. Do not go too tight.
Step 3: Determine a couple things before you start measuring
a) Does this jacket have a ribbed cuff and hem? Or is it straight cut, like a rider’s jacket?
b) if ribbed, it’s likely the jacket has a slightly blousier fit, and it would be good for using as a baseline for ribbed-bottom/cuff jackets, such as the A-2 Bomber, A-1, CWU-45, Anniversary Harrington or MA-1, etc
c) if straight cut, it may or may not fit on the slimmer side, and would be better for using as a baseline for rider’s style jackets: Moto, DR’s, etc.
If you have access to either kind of jacket, then start with the appropriate style jacket.
Step 4 If you are not 100% sure if the jacket is appropriate to use as a base, send me an email with a pic of the jacket you plan to use. I need to see a fit pic of it. From there I can tell you if it’s an appropriate baseline.
Step 5: Measure your example jacket. Zip it up, and lay it flat. All measurements should be taken with two hands, and you should pull any extra fabric out as far as it can go. This is especially true for ribbed bottoms and cuffs Record measurements as you go. If you decide that a certain dimension should be different on your TOJ and do a little adding or subtracting via deduction, then put that idealized measurement in parentheses to the right of the actual measurement.
fig 1) Shoulders are taken across the front. If there is a collar in the way, try to push it down as far as possible so that it doesn’t interfere with the measurement. Measure at the point of the ‘T’ seams.
fig 2) Pit to Pit. Taken across the chest, right at the pit seams where the body meets the sleeve. Pull the jacket out flat at both sides to get the proper measurement.
*** note *** Some jackets may have side seams that don’t reach all the way to the sides, as below. Measure to the outside, over the side seam. If you just measure to the seams for the p2p, you will come up short if this is the case.
fig 3) Midsection. This measurement is about where your ribcage ends, so find that area on the jacket. This measurement is probably going to be the most varied, as some jackets fit closely here, and some do not obviously. It depends on the style of the example jacket you use. For TOJ jackets, the Rider’s style jackets benefit from closer sides, whereas the Bomber style don’t need to be as close.
fig 4) Waist: The measurement at the bottom hem of the jacket.
On ribbed bottom styles, pull the sides out as far as they go and measure across the top where the ribbing starts, not on the actual ribbing.
on straight-cut hems, lay the jacket flat and then guesstimate a little to make up for lost length on the rounded edges:
fig 5) Front length: (the back length is calculated automatically from the front length) - Start from the bottom of the collar band, or if the jacket doesn’t feature this the same way, then where the small between your collarbones is, to the bottom of the jacket, straight down.
fig 6) Sleeve length: from the top of the sleeve head, center, to the end of the sleeve, center.
If straight cut, or angled sleeve; as such:
fig 7) Sleeve widths; hold measuring tape perpendicular to the sleeve and measure from the pit, the elbow and then the cuff (if ribbed cuff, above the ribbing)
width at bicep
width at elbow
For ribbed cuffs, again, pull out the material as wide as it can go, measure across the top of the ribbing and not on the ribbing itself, and then guesstimate a little as well, to make up for lost length
For straight cut cuffs, lay them flat, also guesstimate to make up for lost length in your measurement, or you will come up slightly too short
Sounds long, but it’s just 9 measurements to take and it can be done in 5 minutes or less.
Don’t use a raglan sleeve jacket to try and guesstimate shoulder widths. Inevitably the measurement will come out wrong. You may use the raglan for calculating everything but shoulders and sleeve length, though.
Size guide, part B: Measuring your body for TOJ jackets
Pretty simple. Find someone to measure you, preferably. You can do this alone, but be sure you’re measuring correctly.
Be sure to stand up straight, and for chest measurements, make sure you aren’t relaxing your muscles.
When emailing me, tell me that these are your body measurements, and not jacket measurements. Also, tell me your height and weight
Step 1) Shoulders - measure across the front. The points to which you measure should be right on top of the shoulder, and slightly forward of the center point - basically at the joint but on the front side
measuring point on body:
Step 2) Chest- measure around the broadest point of your chest, this is about an inch or so above your nipples.
Step 3) Midsection - Measure around, about where the ribcage ends, this is ideally the slimmest part of your torso - stand naturally and don’t suck in.
Step 4) Waist - measure around the hipbones, or slightly below; this is a wider part than the midsection.
(could measure a little lower than is indicated in photo, belt was impeding measurement)
Step 5) Front length - measure from the collarbone (top of the bone point, if you want to be exact) to where you think the jacket should hit. Preferably well below your navel, about where your pelvis dips down, but not quite all the way to the natural crotch. If you’re wearing jeans high and fitted on the butt, the jacket should hit about mid-rise on your jeans. If you wear your jeans slightly sagged, then it should go right below the waistband on your jeans.
(this measurement should be nowhere near as long as an untucked buttonup shirt, and if you wear your tees long, not as long as that either)
Step 6) Sleeve length - from the shoulder point (refer to step 1) down to where the hand widens below the wrist.
Step 7) Bicep - flex and measure around
That’s all we need for body measurements. Don’t forget to tell me your height and weight as well.